PS4 - AOR Endurance Leauge Season 3 teir 2 - Monza GP 20/10/18 6:45PM Uk-time | ApexOnlineRacing.com

PS4 AOR Endurance Leauge Season 3 teir 2 - Monza GP 20/10/18 6:45PM Uk-time

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YabbaTheHutt

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Side note: setup differences such as toe, camber, mechanical vs aero grip? Ofc tire pressures.
I ask because if it's right in the middle where neither is optimal, could I change the setup enough to run one enough to make a difference?
Setup is always a nice discussion point. Firstly it's down to how you drive and how you want the car to feel. I always play around with camber and toe-in in the rear. I also do some testing to get the dampers right as I don't like the default setup on those. I always go for a setup that feels stable to me with a quick and responsive front end (don't like understeer).
The most important thing that I've learned is to do race testing with full fuel to learn how to drive fast and consistent. This is the main goal for me. It's good to be fast in quali but if you don't have a good race setup...you probably have issues during the race that makes you loose a lot of time. Quite often, slower is faster (y)
 

NICK-NITRO

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You also want the maximum amount of your trye width you have in contact with the tarmac in a turn so ideally you want a 5 degree spead across the 3 sections of the tyre for the best grip and least tyre wear. keep the bar just below 1.80 or 26psi when fully up to temp as this is the sweet spot for the tyre in gt3 for best performance .
 

MISFITmusicINC

Formula 4 1st Driver
Jul 27, 2018
161
130
Setup is always a nice discussion point. Firstly it's down to how you drive and how you want the car to feel. I always play around with camber and toe-in in the rear. I also do some testing to get the dampers right as I don't like the default setup on those. I always go for a setup that feels stable to me with a quick and responsive front end (don't like understeer).
The most important thing that I've learned is to do race testing with full fuel to learn how to drive fast and consistent. This is the main goal for me. It's good to be fast in quali but if you don't have a good race setup...you probably have issues during the race that makes you loose a lot of time. Quite often, slower is faster (y)
That's interesting. I usually don't touch dampers, as I can't tell the difference when I change them. Mind you I just now started driving cars more properly, I used to overdrive them all the time, tires screaming every turn. I thought that was the way to be fast. Pcars is a little different from other, older PC sims I've played. rF1 GTR2 GSCE. The only things I usually tune is downforce, differential, and tire pressures, and sometimes ARBs in pc2. Only recently i started adjusting roll bar with spring strength depending if the track has long sweepers or tight twistys. I drive the NSX and have tried raising rear damping/lowering front exactly for that reason, to get the front to bite, I don't necessarily like driving a sled either. But it's hard for me to tell a difference so I usually end up adjusting roll bars. But have no idea what else to change to get the suspension to act in concert with itself. I think once I get a better feel for driving "normally" I hope I'll be able to see the changes it makes. For example, I have an AOR GT3 race Wednesday at Nurburgring combined, and I raised the ride hight, lowered springs all around from 220 to 180, lowered all dampers five or six clicks, and reduced the aero to 0-1. I can tell it has good mechanical grip but it gets really sloppy on the last lap before a pitstop. I took some toe and camber out hoping to extend tire life, and I THINK it feels like it has less grip, but I'm not sure. I think maybe with the car rolling or leaning more, I should ADD neg camber. But not 100% on that.

I have adjusted camber and tire pressure in other games meticulously to get optimal contact. But have trouble getting the optimal temps throughout the tire in pc2. I know the only way to see what changed is to drive the car, but I still can't tell definitively.
I understand what all the pieces do separately in theory. Just wish I could really tell the feel, especially with dampers.

Sorry, that's a lot of words.
 
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NICK-NITRO

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Mar 16, 2017
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That's interesting. I usually don't touch dampers, as I can't tell the difference when I change them. Mind you I just now started driving cars more properly, I used to overdrive them all the time, tires screaming every turn. I thought that was the way to be fast. Pcars is a little different from other, older PC sims I've played. rF1 GTR2 GSCE. The only things I usually tune is downforce, differential, and tire pressures, and sometimes ARBs in pc2. Only recently i started adjusting roll bar with spring strength depending if the track has long sweepers or tight twistys. I drive the NSX and have tried raising rear damping/lowering front exactly for that reason, to get the front to bite, I don't necessarily like driving a sled either. But it's hard for me to tell a difference so I usually end up adjusting roll bars. But have no idea what else to change to get the suspension to act in concert with itself. I think once I get a better feel for driving "normally" I hope I'll be able to see the changes it makes. For example, I have an AOR GT3 race Wednesday at Nurburgring combined, and I raised the ride hight, lowered springs all around from 220 to 180, lowered all dampers five or six clicks, and reduced the aero to 0-1. I can tell it has good mechanical grip but it gets really sloppy on the last lap before a pitstop. I took some toe and camber out hoping to extend tire life, and I THINK it feels like it has less grip, but I'm not sure. I think maybe with the car rolling or leaning more, I should ADD neg camber. But not 100% on that.

I have adjusted camber and tire pressure in other games meticulously to get optimal contact. But have trouble getting the optimal temps throughout the tire in pc2. I know the only way to see what changed is to drive the car, but I still can't tell definitively.
I understand what all the pieces do separately in theory. Just wish I could really tell the feel, especially with dampers.

Sorry, that's a lot of words.
The dampers are a very useful tool once you master it, it's best to have a play with them and do drastic changes then go out and some few laps, but for an example if you take the lambo that has no front splitter it's best to have the rear dampers quite stiff to help the car rotate better in a turn.
If you get steady state turn in oversteer stiffen the front slow bump and rebound,and vice versa for understeer.
For me the dampers are were I find my 2 or 3 extra tenths in a setup and I always adjust my springs with the dampers.
 

MISFITmusicINC

Formula 4 1st Driver
Jul 27, 2018
161
130
The dampers are a very useful tool once you master it, it's best to have a play with them and do drastic changes then go out and some few laps, but for an example if you take the lambo that has no front splitter it's best to have the rear dampers quite stiff to help the car rotate better in a turn.
If you get steady state turn in oversteer stiffen the front slow bump and rebound,and vice versa for understeer.
For me the dampers are were I find my 2 or 3 extra tenths in a setup and I always adjust my springs with the dampers.
Thanks man, I'll give that a go. Put like that the concept is easy grasp. I often overthink the details.
 

YabbaTheHutt

Super Moderator and PCars Overseer
Staff member
Super Moderator
PCARS Coordinator
Mar 13, 2016
9,847
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That's interesting. I usually don't touch dampers, as I can't tell the difference when I change them. Mind you I just now started driving cars more properly, I used to overdrive them all the time, tires screaming every turn. I thought that was the way to be fast. Pcars is a little different from other, older PC sims I've played. rF1 GTR2 GSCE. The only things I usually tune is downforce, differential, and tire pressures, and sometimes ARBs in pc2. Only recently i started adjusting roll bar with spring strength depending if the track has long sweepers or tight twistys. I drive the NSX and have tried raising rear damping/lowering front exactly for that reason, to get the front to bite, I don't necessarily like driving a sled either. But it's hard for me to tell a difference so I usually end up adjusting roll bars. But have no idea what else to change to get the suspension to act in concert with itself. I think once I get a better feel for driving "normally" I hope I'll be able to see the changes it makes. For example, I have an AOR GT3 race Wednesday at Nurburgring combined, and I raised the ride hight, lowered springs all around from 220 to 180, lowered all dampers five or six clicks, and reduced the aero to 0-1. I can tell it has good mechanical grip but it gets really sloppy on the last lap before a pitstop. I took some toe and camber out hoping to extend tire life, and I THINK it feels like it has less grip, but I'm not sure. I think maybe with the car rolling or leaning more, I should ADD neg camber. But not 100% on that.

I have adjusted camber and tire pressure in other games meticulously to get optimal contact. But have trouble getting the optimal temps throughout the tire in pc2. I know the only way to see what changed is to drive the car, but I still can't tell definitively.
I understand what all the pieces do separately in theory. Just wish I could really tell the feel, especially with dampers.

Sorry, that's a lot of words.
Yup, setup is a djungle (y)

Some things that might help you on the way:
- Slow Dampers are reacting to driver input (acceleration, breaking and steering). I usually have these stiff, almost to the max and fronts a little stiffer that the rear.
- Fast Dampers are reacting to surface input (road bumps and curbs). Depending on track but I mostly have them quite soft.
- Damper transition... Don't really know how to explain this in a good way but it is something like how fast the dampers change from compressed to relaxed.

Some exellent videos on the subject:
@Yorkie065 have an excellent series on PCars 2 and all you need to know and din't know you needed to know. Episode 14 and 16 delas with suspension and dampers.
 
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YabbaTheHutt

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Super Moderator
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Mar 13, 2016
9,847
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This video also was a lot of help for to better understand what to change and what it helps with:
 
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MISFITmusicINC

Formula 4 1st Driver
Jul 27, 2018
161
130
Yup, setup is a djungle (y)

Some things that might help you on the way:
- Slow Dampers are reacting to driver input (acceleration, breaking and steering). I usually have these stiff, almost to the max and fronts a little stiffer that the rear.
- Fast Dampers are reacting to surface input (road bumps and curbs). Depending on track but I mostly have them quite soft.
- Damper transition... Don't really know how to explain this in a good way but it is something like how fast the dampers change from compressed to relaxed.

Some exellent videos on the subject:
@Yorkie065 have an excellent series on PCars 2 and all you need to know and din't know you needed to know. Episode 14 and 16 delas with suspension and dampers.
Rebound isn't the damper pushing up, it's controlling how fast the springs push upward? So a higher rebound setting slows the spring rebound. I always thought of rebound opposite. The higher it's set, the faster the car will return to neutral. You don't know how many papers I've read on dampers and just now realizing that. Pretty funny.
So slow dampers really are for fine tuning. And always adjust them the same percentage you adjust the springs, so it's not oscillating or "taking over" sort of the springs job.

Now if there was just an easy button to setup the vantage to take Eau Rogue flat out without heart attack every lap :LOL:

Thanks for sharing those are some great vids. I've watched most of Yorkies but haven't seen that one.
 

NICK-NITRO

Premium Member
Premium Member
Mar 16, 2017
3,974
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Rebound isn't the damper pushing up, it's controlling how fast the springs push upward? So a higher rebound setting slows the spring rebound. I always thought of rebound opposite. The higher it's set, the faster the car will return to neutral. You don't know how many papers I've read on dampers and just now realizing that. Pretty funny.
So slow dampers really are for fine tuning. And always adjust them the same percentage you adjust the springs, so it's not oscillating or "taking over" sort of the springs job.

Now if there was just an easy button to setup the vantage to take Eau Rogue flat out without heart attack every lap :LOL:

Thanks for sharing those are some great vids. I've watched most of Yorkies but haven't seen that one.
You can download some Good setup tools if you have a laptop or pc, myself and quite a few others use the pc2 tuner check out his YouTube channel and you can follow the links to download his tool, you have to pay a small fee but it’s a good bit of kit
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRhu6lIt9a3-d36i7iligVQ