PC - AOR GT3 S14 - PC Tier 2 - Round 7: Le Mans Bugatti - 04.12.19 @8PM UK TIME | ApexOnlineRacing.com

PC AOR GT3 S14 - PC Tier 2 - Round 7: Le Mans Bugatti - 04.12.19 @8PM UK TIME


StephenCarry

Formula 4 1st Driver
Jun 13, 2019
152
83
How easy to open the wheel?
well.. easy but around 40 screws :D

I used those 2 videos. Different topic but they explain and show it pretty good. For the German one you see what he's doing so don't have to listen. Or use automatically translated captions - mostly correct, sometimes hilariously bad (now we have the salad!) :D


 
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TicklishPicklewickle

Project CARS Coordinator
Staff member
PCARS Coordinator
Premium Member
Oct 23, 2016
4,564
2,778
sry guys , i cant race this one. Im sick
Surely you can't know if you'll be sick for the next 2 days? :p
I'll keep you on the list for now. Come back to me on Wednesday if you're still sick ;)
 

Mr zak

Pro Karter
Oct 4, 2019
49
17
Guys what time you do on the buggati? Just wanna know where i am compared x).
I do 1:38 .
 

TicklishPicklewickle

Project CARS Coordinator
Staff member
PCARS Coordinator
Premium Member
Oct 23, 2016
4,564
2,778
Guys what time you do on the buggati? Just wanna know where i am compared x).
I do 1:38 .
Race fuel, adjusted wings and tyre pressures, I can do mid to high 36s. The Ginetta feels really nice on this track I must say. But I reckon due to the pace of drivers being pretty spread out in this tier, you'll still find someone to race
 

JackGame88

Formula Karter
Apr 15, 2019
57
34
I managed to do a few laps of 1:36.6-1:36.8 with full fuel load, but I guess I'll be around 1:37.0-1:37.5 during the race. After about 100 or so laps on this track, I'm still trying to find the best racing line in some corners
 

StephenCarry

Formula 4 1st Driver
Jun 13, 2019
152
83
jeez I run mid to high 36 in quali setup.. haven't done race setup yet :rolleyes:

still really unsure how much downforce I should use.. lower is waaaaaaay faster but sooooo unstable. Also the really strange brake and tyre temps/pressures keep me confused... tyres and engine seem to burn faster than on Laguna Seca at 60°C track temps :ROFLMAO:


Do as 80% of all drivers and just take that stupid rubber block out :p
done that! Works waaay better, thank you so much everyone! :)

is it normal tho that while calibrating ingame, the brake pedal shows as already 100% pushed, although I only pushed the pedal halfway through? I hope you guys understand what I mean... brakes are under 100% load while I only push to about 50-60% - the rest ist just "deadzone" as if I calibrated it that way... :unsure:
 
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TicklishPicklewickle

Project CARS Coordinator
Staff member
PCARS Coordinator
Premium Member
Oct 23, 2016
4,564
2,778
is it normal tho that while calibrating ingame, the brake pedal shows as already 100% pushed, although I only pushed the pedal halfway through? I hope you guys understand what I mean... brakes are under 100% load while I only push to about 50-60% - the rest ist just "deadzone" as if I calibrated it that way... :unsure:
That doesn't sound normal, no. Does it show 100% even before you've pressed the pedal in the calibration tool? Or do you press it lightly and it goes all the way to 100%? If the latter, then my guess is that the potentiometer has been worn out. Unfortunately that's probably the most common problem with these entry level wheels. The wheels themselves are very nice, but that also means they have to cheap out somewhere and that's 9 times out of 10 the pedals. I've had a G27 and 2 G29s and they all had potantiometer problems on either the throttle or brake pedal. Now I have a TM T300RS and have had that for over a year without a problem
 
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MADDOG

Formula Karter
Feb 10, 2017
52
16
jeez I run mid to high 36 in quali setup.. haven't done race setup yet :rolleyes:

still really unsure how much downforce I should use.. lower is waaaaaaay faster but sooooo unstable. Also the really strange brake and tyre temps/pressures keep me confused... tyres and engine seem to burn faster than on Laguna Seca at 60°C track temps :ROFLMAO:




done that! Works waaay better, thank you so much everyone! :)

is it normal tho that while calibrating ingame, the brake pedal shows as already 100% pushed, although I only pushed the pedal halfway through? I hope you guys understand what I mean... brakes are under 100% load while I only push to about 50-60% - the rest ist just "deadzone" as if I calibrated it that way...

The game would have showed the last calibration with the block in the pedal the potentiometer would have only moved 60-70% but in game calibrated to 100% so when the block is removed before calibration it will so 100% in game but the pedal will only move 60%
 

StephenCarry

Formula 4 1st Driver
Jun 13, 2019
152
83
That doesn't sound normal, no. Does it show 100% even before you've pressed the pedal in the calibration tool? Or do you press it lightly and it goes all the way to 100%? If the latter, then my guess is that the potentiometer has been worn out. Unfortunately that's probably the most common problem with these entry level wheels. The wheels themselves are very nice, but that also means they have to cheap out somewhere and that's 9 times out of 10 the pedals. I've had a G27 and 2 G29s and they all had potantiometer problems on either the throttle or brake pedal. Now I have a TM T300RS and have had that for over a year without a problem
well a halfday of research says it is very much normal bcs the g29 simply has a ~20% deadzone at the end of the braking pedal. Nothing you can do to avoid it - except working around with a new brake mod rubber thingy or live with it.

The game would have showed the last calibration with the block in the pedal the potentiometer would have only moved 60-70% but in game calibrated to 100% so when the block is removed before calibration it will so 100% in game but the pedal will only move 60%
that occured to me this morning... i'll try and delete the setup files and see if it works. If not: work it back together, calibrate, other way round. And hope it's not the potis :D

edit: built it back together and apart again and calibrated everything again and again and there's nothing you can do to avoid that deadzone. F*k me that's uncool.
 
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MADDOG

Formula Karter
Feb 10, 2017
52
16
well a halfday of research says it is very much normal bcs the g29 simply has a ~20% deadzone at the end of the braking pedal. Nothing you can do to avoid it - except working around with a new brake mod rubber thingy or live with it.



that occured to me this morning... i'll try and delete the setup files and see if it works. If not: work it back together, calibrate, other way round. And hope it's not the potis :D

edit: built it back together and apart again and calibrated everything again and again and there's nothing you can do to avoid that deadzone. F*k me that's uncool.
Have you calibrated in the logitech software before in game?
 

MADDOG

Formula Karter
Feb 10, 2017
52
16
well there is nothing to calibrate except for a few sliders^^
It's been a while since i used a g29 so could be wrong but I think when on the screen with the pedals showing is there a click down bar on each pedal?
 

Mr zak

Pro Karter
Oct 4, 2019
49
17
Update sakitto race : fuel out on finish line
« The stewards have decided to classify @Mr zak as 10th in the final results.
10th place is the last place from the drivers who did 52 laps.>>
Thx to @mbkmsi for showing me the rules that i was ignored!! Peace bro ✌