PS4 - PS4 ACC Setups and Wheel settings | ApexOnlineRacing.com

PS4 PS4 ACC Setups and Wheel settings


The_Kaiser-MS

7 Times AOR PS4 Project CARS2 Champion!
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Oct 1, 2017
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This is my best lap, one of the few where I manage not to go off the track . @Alan Andrews @frabiond . Aggressive setup, tire pressure on 27.5 PSI and height rear 58. More than this I can not change, after either I am too slow or even more in stability crisis. I try to learn from this video but I don't undestand why Is so stable car .

My problem at the moment is that I can't stand steady under braking. Any parameter I change doesn't help me. On Project Cars 2 this happened to me often but I found the solution: I approached the front camber as much as possible with the rear, I stiffened the front suspension or not the engine brake. Here on ACC these parameters don't change anything for me, I just go slower. Not having control of your car is the thing I hate the most, if you or someone else knows the solution to my problem, help me. I'm going crazy :cry:
 
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Raoualf21731

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This is my best lap, one of the few where I manage not to go off the track . @Alan Andrews @frabiond . Aggressive setup, tire pressure on 27.5 PSI and height rear 58. More than this I can not change, after either I am too slow or even more in stability crisis. I try to learn from this video but I don't undestand why Is so stable car .

My problem at the moment is that I can't stand steady under braking. Any parameter I change doesn't help me. On Project Cars 2 this happened to me often but I found the solution: I approached the front camber as much as possible with the rear, I stiffened the front suspension or not the engine brake. Here on ACC these parameters don't change anything for me, I just go slower. Not having control of your car is the thing I hate the most, if you or someone else knows the solution to my problem, help me. I'm going crazy :cry:
Hey mate, on the Porsche I used to stiffen the rear suspension and reduce the rear bumpstop range. For some reasons, it helped me to keep the car more balanced under heavy braking. Did you try this too?

The aero changes a lot depending on how much fuel you have left in your tank, as the tank is in front so your problem might lie somewhere there too. Don't forget to fix your aero balance when you change your amount of fuel
 
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YabbaTheHutt

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I try to learn from this video but I don't undestand why Is so stable car
I think you're struggling with the same I have struggled with. The cars in ACC are sensitive to how you brake and when you brake. Easy to upset the car. I checked your video and Tortellini's video. One difference I see is after the long back straight. He is only braking around 60% and slightly starts turning during braking where you brake harder, 100%, and start to turn just as you get of the brakes. I think this will upset the car and it will act unstable.

In general for ACC, I find that you really need to focus on how you drive. I find lots of time (~0.2 seconds) by simply braking 3-5 meters earlier but a little less as this helps keep the car stable and I get a better turn in. My biggest problem is to get a full lap together. I gain time in some corners only to make a slight mistake in one and lose all gained time. It's a challanging game and that's why I love it :)
 

YabbaTheHutt

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Mar 13, 2016
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This is my best lap, one of the few where I manage not to go off the track . @Alan Andrews @frabiond . Aggressive setup, tire pressure on 27.5 PSI and height rear 58. More than this I can not change, after either I am too slow or even more in stability crisis. I try to learn from this video but I don't undestand why Is so stable car .

My problem at the moment is that I can't stand steady under braking. Any parameter I change doesn't help me. On Project Cars 2 this happened to me often but I found the solution: I approached the front camber as much as possible with the rear, I stiffened the front suspension or not the engine brake. Here on ACC these parameters don't change anything for me, I just go slower. Not having control of your car is the thing I hate the most, if you or someone else knows the solution to my problem, help me. I'm going crazy :cry:
I've just spent an hour with the Porsche at Paul Ricard. My best hotlap in the Lexus is 1:56.5 and with the Porsche with Aggressive setup I could barely get in to 1:59. Extremely twitchy, I double checked the steering lock and it was correct. I then tried the Safe Setup and after 5 laps I did 1:57.8... went back to Aggressive setup and did one adjustement and was down to 1:57.7!!!

The first thing I have learned about the car is that in high and mid speed corners, you can't be off throttle. The car was very stable as long as I had some throttle (about 10%). The fast corner after the back straight was also stable if I went from brakes directly on the throttle.

The change I did on stint 2 with Aggressive Setup was to change the steering lock from 800 up to 1080. The result was a completely different car to drive. 1080 is a bit too much, needed some extra input to get round some corners but much more stable. I even could catch oversteers as I actually felt them coming. Maybe someone else can test to just change the steering lock with Aggressive setup?
 

BMTM_Shifter

Formula 4 1st Driver
May 24, 2019
180
169
I've just spent an hour with the Porsche at Paul Ricard. My best hotlap in the Lexus is 1:56.5 and with the Porsche with Aggressive setup I could barely get in to 1:59. Extremely twitchy, I double checked the steering lock and it was correct. I then tried the Safe Setup and after 5 laps I did 1:57.8... went back to Aggressive setup and did one adjustement and was down to 1:57.7!!!

The first thing I have learned about the car is that in high and mid speed corners, you can't be off throttle. The car was very stable as long as I had some throttle (about 10%). The fast corner after the back straight was also stable if I went from brakes directly on the throttle.

The change I did on stint 2 with Aggressive Setup was to change the steering lock from 800 up to 1080. The result was a completely different car to drive. 1080 is a bit too much, needed some extra input to get round some corners but much more stable. I even could catch oversteers as I actually felt them coming. Maybe someone else can test to just change the steering lock with Aggressive setup?
Dont know why you guys are complaining Lol. Best i can do in whatever car or whatever setup is mid 58. Still nearly 3 sec of your pace
 

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The_Kaiser-MS

7 Times AOR PS4 Project CARS2 Champion!
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Oct 1, 2017
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First of all, thank you very much to all of you who joined the discussion, I really appreciate your help. @YabbaTheHutt @Raoualf21731 . I tried a bit of everything you recommended and in the end I managed to fix the situation a bit. I see 1080 don't help me , but tomorrow i repet test.

In the end, starting from the aggressive setup, I put the tires at 26.2-26.7 in front and 25.7-26.1 in rear, 20 liters, rear height 59, front height 54. Rear wing 2. Brake line 2-2.

It would seem that the rear wing 2 is helping me a lot in stability. For the first time I was able to do the 55.8 for several consecutive attempts, so if before I did it 1 every 10-15 laps now I can do it 1 every 1-2 laps. I have probably reached my limit, but at least if I can stay on the track it is already a victory. If I improve something I obviously write it. Thanks again everyone for the help.

@BMTM_Shifter In this race you will see 1.54 so together maybe We can help us :p
 
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Raoualf21731

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Jan 27, 2020
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The change I did on stint 2 with Aggressive Setup was to change the steering lock from 800 up to 1080. The result was a completely different car to drive. 1080 is a bit too much, needed some extra input to get round some corners but much more stable. I even could catch oversteers as I actually felt them coming. Maybe someone else can test to just change the steering lock with Aggressive setup?
I always keep the steering lock to 1080. I agree with you, you can feel the unstability coming more sharply and it just feels better to me. On the Lexus I think we're supposed to run the car at 600 or so, it feels so bad so I keep it the way I like and I'm used to. Same with all the other cars

In the end, starting from the aggressive setup, I put the tires at 26.2-26.7 in front and 25.7-26.1 in rear, 20 liters, rear height 59, front height 54. Rear wing 2. Brake line 2-2.

It would seem that the rear wing 2 is helping me a lot in stability. For the first time I was able to do the 55.8 for several consecutive attempts, so if before I did it 1 every 10-15 laps now I can do it 1 every 1-2 laps. I have probably reached my limit, but at least if I can stay on the track it is already a victory. If I improve something I obviously write it. Thanks again everyone for the help.
For the pressures as long as the outside part of the tyre is green and the pressure around 27.5psi, you'll get the most out of your tyres. Also, at Misano recently I just closed my brake ducts by 2 clicks and it gave me immediately 3 tenth per lap so it might be a good way to adjust your braking performance and pressures at the same time. You can also try back and forth brake pads 1 & 2, they feel different.

Anyway the feeling of the pitchy Porsche comes from the rear wing that is so much exposed under braking because it is so high above the car. So I think you're pointing towards the right direction if you feel that you've got a better balance with your rear wing adjustment. That's the crucial point, the rest is only about making the rest of the car stable and composed when all the air is hitting this wing
 

Hygrade B

ACC Coordinator
ACC Coordinator
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Feb 14, 2020
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HAHAHA maybe AMG next i already done a setup for the bentley at silverstone.
I sure you abandoned the AMG or Bentley if I remember right , in league racing.
You was once a driver of great cars :D
 

The_Kaiser-MS

7 Times AOR PS4 Project CARS2 Champion!
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Oct 1, 2017
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Hi guys, looking on the web I found this link in which it explains very well the game settings, I think it is valid. I downloaded it in Italian (setup.zip) but if you go to the link that I inserted there is also in English. I think it is very very useful, integrating it with Aris videos maybe we can really understand every aspect of the setup on ACC. I'll start tonight on the test track par excellence: Catalunya. Good test


 

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silverfox

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Mar 20, 2020
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I think BMTM has it right. Porsche always has a basic flaw of the engine hanging out over the rear axle. Early 911 Porsches were notorious for swapping ends in real life , all that weight in the rear. Use to say that they handled like the old Skodas that everyone use to laugh at, same engine layout. When power is put on the back sits down a bit giving more grip. So bit of power on helps straighten them up. So I suppose the sim has accurately replicated that. Porsche designed the VW Beetle, which had the same layout, engine over the back axle.
Not very informative on how to set it up in the sim but I don't think I would be able to tell you guys anything about that or how to drive them!
 
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Hacked_GTR

Semi-Pro Karter
Aug 21, 2020
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Hey all,

I made upgrade from T150 to CSL elite PS4. Yesterday it came and i updated firmware with last version which is out few days.
I used Fanatec recommended settings for GT sport and ACC(PS4). In GT sport i got great FFB feel but in ACC it's worse than my old T150, I can sense rumble inside and FFB is weak, i can barely sense anything.
Do anyone have similar problem?
Pedals with loadcell works great in both games.
 
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YabbaTheHutt

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Mar 13, 2016
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Hey all,

I made upgrade from T150 to CSL elite PS4. Yesterday it came and i updated firmware with last version which is out few days.
I used Fanatec recommended settings for GT sport and ACC(PS4). In GT sport i got great FFB feel but in ACC it's worse than my old T150, I can sense rumble inside and FFB is weak, i can barely sense anything.
Do anyone have similar problem?
Pedals with loadcell works great in both games.
I used the CSL up to last week when I got a Podium DD1 instead. Which driver did you install? The one you find on the download side at Fanatec doesn't work well with ACC. I had terrible FFB and steering lock issues on the CSL wheel until I tested a Beta driver. Totally changed everything for me.

The latest Beta driver is found here:
 

Hacked_GTR

Semi-Pro Karter
Aug 21, 2020
24
47
I used the CSL up to last week when I got a Podium DD1 instead. Which driver did you install? The one you find on the download side at Fanatec doesn't work well with ACC. I had terrible FFB and steering lock issues on the CSL wheel until I tested a Beta driver. Totally changed everything for me.

The latest Beta driver is found here:
That's the driver i installed (v373).
 
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silverfox

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Mar 20, 2020
273
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Just a word of caution. I have CSL elite wheel and base for PS4. I loaded the Beta Driver but ran into problems when calibrating. Asked me to move the Z, X and Y axis!!
Wheel wouldn't work at all. I had to remove the Fanatec driver from the PC and reload the old Fanatec driver that wheel came with. Version I have is PC driver 328 WB
FW 674,if that makes sense.
This seems to work well,
 

silverfox

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Mar 20, 2020
273
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Just saw on that Fanatec link that the firmware update that my wheel base came with is 674 so already is the current one. My wheel and base are about 4 months old.
With that after the ACC patch my FFB is very strong. I had to turn the FF down to 30 sometimes go up to 40 for race but arms tired the next day. Just check you have the latest update from ACC.My wheel settings, the ordinary wheel that comes with the PS4 package are SEN auto:FF 100: drl -02: fei 70: for 30 or 40 (very heavy): spr 100: dpr:100 bli 100: sho:100
 

silverfox

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Mar 20, 2020
273
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Sorry previous post FOR is 100 but it's the FF I had to turn down to 30 or 40.